Make sure you test the product on an inconspicuous surface prior to applying the full application to ensure it will work.ģ. “A pump-up sprayer may make a big mess of an airless application, and vice versa,” she says. Using the wrong one could result in a costly mistake. “Make sure you do it the way they want it done.” For example, she notes, there are two different types of spray applications: pump-up sprayers and airless sprayers. “Everyone knows how their products work best,” Murray explains.
Each staining product is different, so make sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions before proceeding with the stain.
#Chinking log cabin windows
Mask off any windows at this point to avoid staining unwarranted areas.Ģ. (Note: Be sure to wear a mask - any basic mask that covers your nose and mouth will do - to prevent inhalation of harmful particles during this process.) Then rinse the surface to clear it of any leftover sanding particles. “You have got to start with a uniform clean product to get good results aesthetically.” To achieve a clean surface, you must first power wash your exterior using a minimum pressure of 3000 psi, then sand the log using an orbital finish sander to get rid of the glaze. “Stain by its very description allows the undertone of the wood to show through,” says Barbara Murray, president of CTA Products. In order for stain to properly adhere to the log, this glaze must be removed. If you are using logs, when new, they may have what’s known as mill glaze - a hard layer created during the milling process as water-soluble extracts are brought to the surface of the wood. Select the product that best suits your cabin’s location and needs labels should include information on whether the product offers UV protection, repels water and prevents rot.ġ. Myriad products are available to accomplish this task, both in single- and multi-coat applications, and in a number of colors. Pine cones abound.Staining your cabin is more than just an aesthetic choice - it’s essential protection to make your exterior last for the lifetime of your home. I’ve been thrilled to find how simple and satisfying it is. This is my first personal project with natural building techniques. Work is on pause until the temperature is warm enough for me to work ungloved, which may not be until next spring. It’s taken about 10 hours to get 25% of the cabin done. For this situation, a regular teaspoon did the trick. Once you have the mixture, it’s just a matter of applying it.
I used a plastic cup as my “part”, mixing up just enough at a time that I could easily finish a batch in a couple hours. They say to add enough water so that the mixture is the consistency of cookie dough. I dug a hole for the soil, mined the firepit, picked up some table salt while grocery shopping, and carried a bucket of water up from the lake. With a little more searching, Mother Earth News came through with a recipe which called for materials I either already had or could easily source. All I could find for sale was giant quantities of the stuff, as most people who use it have full sized homes and logs to cover, much beyond this petit project. This is the type of mortar that fills in the gaps. This summer I began researching chinking in log cabins. What to do? Forego the big box stores and look to the land.
#Chinking log cabin trial
We’ve learned through trial and error that caulking shrinks with temperature fluctuations. It’s now enclosed in wood, which we hope will keep the furry neighbors in their trees this winter. The soffits and fascia saw both plastic and metal screen chewed right through. It was not designed to keep critters out, so there have been multiple iterations of attempts to seal it up. If you think that’s small, don’t worry! There is a loft in the rafters that offers a spacious 2’ apex. When we got it, there was no question about what it would become: a teeny tiny off-grid cabin for extra guests. It was built as a children’s playhouse and lawn mower shed. The Lincoln Log Cabin came into my family through Craigslist.